• Maroon's

  244 W. 16th Street, 212-206-8640

  As a kid, wouldn’t touch it. As an adult, don’t crave it. But when it shows up here all golden and crusty as a side dish, I’ll happily down it.
  —HAL RUBENSTEIN

• Artisanal

  2 Park Ave., New York, NY 10016, at 32nd St., 212-725-8585

  The thinking man’s choice, provided you don’t get too carried away trying to divine all the cheeses.
  —ADAM PLATT

• Dumont's

  432 Union Ave., 11211, between Metropolitan Ave. and Devoe St., 718-486-7717

  This one’s got a lot going for it: white Cheddar, Parmesan, Gruyère, plus—for textural contrast—a smattering of salty, chewy lardons.
  —ROBIN RAISFELD

• Blue Smoke

  116 E. 27th St., 10016, between Park and Lexington Avenues, 212-447-7733

  An obscenely rich, ultra-creamy, unbearably great mac ’n’ cheese, free of gourmet gewgaws. It’s like a Stouffer’s version that went to finishing school.
  —ROB PATRONITE

From the 2003 Best of New York issue of New York Magazine