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Thomas Valenti's uptown outpost is appealing enough to shatter the misperception that there is a lack of worthy places to eat on the Upper West Side. Designer Peter Neimetz has created coves of intimacy in an unwieldy space by using dark-wood stain and spherical cherry leather booths. But despite Ouest's stunningly civilized decision to play soothing jazz, families continue to backslap and high-five across the table, while others bicker as a check for six is split four ways—a misplaced and dishonoring display of egalitarianism. A bit of behavior modification in the presence of real talent is not just a nice gesture; it's deserved, because the folks at Ouest are doing something special. Valenti has honed the menu to the point where almost every dish resonates with love-it-in-an-instant flavors that mask their degrees of difficulty. You can also delight in the gutsy finish seared tuna acquires with chickpea purée or an atypically tart tomato-chive broth on a tenderly flaky sautéed skate. With a sensational crème fraîche panna cotta with fresh passion fruit, the desserts exhibit a rare ability to satisfy both a pastry chef's urge for discovery and New Yorkers' lust for solid, third-act gratification. — Hal Rubenstein

Mon.—Fri., dinner, three courses, $33

Brunch
Sun., 11 a.m.—2 p.m., $28 (not served July-Labor Day)

Pan roasted rabbit, $31; double rib pork chops, $26

Related Stories

New York Magazine Reviews

• Hal Rubenstein's Full Review (6/18/01)

Best of New York Awards

• Best New Restaurant (2002)
• Best Meatloaf (2002)

Featured In

• Adam Platt's Where to Eat 2009 (1/5/09)
• Where to Eat 2008 (1/7/08)
• Grade AA: Ten Egg Dishes to Cluck Over (4/9/07)
• 101 Best New York Restaurants for 2006 (1/9/06)

Recipes at Ouest

• Linguine With Black Truffles and Escarole Salad (2003)
• Mushroom Sauce (2001)
• Meat Loaf With Mushroom Sauce (2001)
• Crème Fraîche Panna Cotta With Strawberry Purée (2001)