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The Garden Cafe is an experiment in understatement. They almost never advertise, are open only for dinner, and keep their metal gates down all afternoon with only the menu peering out from behind dark windows. Despite being unimposing, even secretive, they’ve created a buzz in the neighborhood for the tiny restaurant. The ever-changing menu reflects the humble philosophy: it’s delicious yet unceremonious. Flank steak with garlic-chive mashed potatoes and veal tenderloin with curried, pureed purple eggplant were particularly scrumptious, as were the sea scallops with white truffle beurre blanc. The room would be romantic (they have only 12 tables) were it not for the all-beige décor that gives it a slightly stodgy air, making it feel like the best restaurant in some small Connecticut town: exclusive, but not in a red velvet rope way. The intimate setting might be best for old friends who wish to catch up over a solidly tasty meal without distraction, or uptight out-of-town relatives who may initially be wary of dining in Brooklyn. — Lisa Selin Davis

Tue.–Thu., two courses, $28; three courses, $32

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